Charles E. Watson Guitar Lessons: About Buying A Guitar   
  
ABOUT BUYING A GUITAR brief discussion of features of a serviceable guitar

This page is an addendum to ABOUT GUITAR LESSONS

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Basically, it doesn't matter if the guitar costs $39 or $3900, the guitar student, preferably, should have a guitar that will tune correctly, stay in tune, and be made of appropriate materials to produce a suitable sound. There are aspects of the guitar instrument that apply to all, regardless of kind, style, model, or manufacturer. The following discussion is meant to convey basic information for testing a guitar for it's serviceability as an instrument. One need not be an expert to be able to check out and/or test basic features of a guitar to tell if it will be a serviceable instrument; it's possible a guitar music store sales person is a guitarist, or at least reasonably familiar with guitars, and can be asked to assist in checking out these aspects of an individual guitar for the customer.

SEE OTHER COMPARISON PAGES:
CLICK HERE for information on buying a guitar
CLICK HERE for information on guitar amplifiers
CLICK HERE for information on guitar and bass strings
CLICK HERE for information on guitar effects in a combo amp head or to use with a combo amp and kinds of units
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE guitar amplifiers, 10-20 Watt with 5" to 8" speakers. Priced: $80 and less
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE guitar amplifiers, 15-60 Watt with 8" to 12" speakers. Price range: $150 and less
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE guitar amplifiers, 15-100 Watt with 8" to 12" speakers. Price range: $350 - $150
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE of combo guitar amplifier w/ zoom image of  guitar amp head showing features & knobs
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE bass guitar combo amplifiers 25-120W with 10" to 15" speakers. Priced around $200 and less
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE bass guitar combo amplifiers 30-300W with 10" to 15" speakers. Priced around $200-$350
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE acoustic/electric guitar amplifiers 10 - 60W with 6" to 8" speakers Priced: $300 and less
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE electric guitar package comparisons
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE electric bass guitar package comparisons

CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE acoustic guitar package comparisons
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE acoustic/electric guitar package comparisons
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE classical guitar package comparisons

RETURNS: ONLINE PRESS KIT PLUS  ABOUT GUITAR LESSONS   ABOUT GUITARS   ABOUT GUITAR EQUIPMENT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 ABOUT BUYING A GUITAR  
      

The guitar (and bass guitar) is a musical instrument and, no different than acquiring a violin or trombone for instrument lessons and studying music, there are features of the construction of the instrument that render one superior over another. Basically, it doesn't matter if the guitar costs $39 or $3900, the guitar student, preferably, should have a guitar that will tune correctly, stay in tune, and be made of appropriate materials to produce a suitable sound.

The guitar is no doubt the most popular instrument in the general public...there are many makers of many kinds, styles, and models of guitars, manufacturing is international, and, unlike a violin, for example, the guitar keeps arriving on the shelf in ever new forms with ever improved electronic technology (for electric models), features (locking nuts, better tuning pegs, improved bridge design, additional strings, built in equalizers and effects) and unique body shapes and finishes.

There are certain aspects of the guitar instrument that apply to all, regardless of kind, style, model, or manufacturer. Below are labeled diagrams of an electric 6 string guitar, an electric bass guitar, a 5 string acoustic steel string guitar, and a classical guitar.

In addition to checking out the basic aspects for a serviceable guitar, finding a personal guitar could be likened to searching for a new automobile...test driving more than one tells you a lot about your own subjective preferences and fit. There is also the aspect of the quality of materials, for example volume, tone & other control knobs and switches can sometimes be 'flimsy' or loose...if a control knob comes off easily, it will soon become lost and need replacement.

Price and brand isn't always an indicator of a serviceable instrument. Whereas price is sometimes a factor, for example purchasing an 'American' made Fender Stratocaster will cost much more than a Korean made Fender Stratocaster and that price difference does reflect quality of workmanship and materials, Fender has made a point of it, a pricey tag is no guarantee of a flawless individual instrument and an individual serviceable Korean made Strat is possible to find for less money.

Manufacturer, country where made, and model number on electric guitars is usually located on the back of the head or on the neck bolt plate. Acoustic guitars, and classicals, usually have this information on a label visible through the sound hole:
          
back of headstock stamp          neck bolt plate          acoustic sound hole label

Basic things to look for:

Classical or acoustic guitars best have a wood top, spruce and ash are the most commonly used, sometimes other woods such as cedar, cherry wood, and maple are used. Some 'less expensive' guitars have synthetic body tops. Below is a brief description of various woods used in guitar construction describing some of the features of different woods, uses, and their resonation qualities.

 

'Binding' around the edges is a good feature, although not a 'necessary' one, in that this seals and fortifies where the side, bottom and top edges of the body meet. The guitar on the left shows an ash top and sides with edge binding; the guitar on the right shows a spruce top with edge binding. Both of these guitars have a 'pick guard', which protects the top surface from ware. The guitar on the right also shows a 'cut-away' body which allows easier access to the entire fretboard.

   

Guitar necks are often made of maple...one of the hardest of woods. The closer to the core of the tree, and therefore tightness of tree rings, the stronger the wood. Burled wood is also very strong. When looking at the neck of a guitar, notice the grain. When green wood dries, it twists and also humidity levels and temperature changes can cause wood to twist. The harder the wood, tighter the tree rings, or burled, the less, if any, the neck will twist & change over time. Some guitar necks are reinforced with a steel rod for not only keeping the neck straight but also to allow for adjustments over time to keep the neck straight.

The fretboard, or 'soundboard', is a relatively thin slice of wood laminated on the top surface of the guitar neck into which metal frets are inlayed and are most commonly made of rosewood or ebony. Mother of pearl, and other decorative materials, are inlayed into the fretboard, small 'dots', to visually indicate the 3rd, 5th, 7th, and 12th frets. Small similar inlays are sometimes placed on the top edge of the neck, visible to the guitarist, at these fret locations. Classical guitars, generally, do not have these 'dot' inlays.

A string on a guitar vibrates and produces sound waves. The length of the string is from the bridge to the nut. The 12th fret is half the length of the string. At the 12th fret, the half-length string should sound the same note as the full-length, or 'open' string, but an octave higher...the pitch will be higher. This is called the 12th fret string harmonic. A serviceable guitar must have true harmonics.  It's easy to test the 12th fret harmonics of a guitar string by simply plucking the open string and then pressing one's finger down on the string in that 12th fret and plucking the string again and listening to hear the comparative sound produced. Each string on the guitar can be tested in this way. True 12th fret harmonics, in general, indicate a straight neck and properly placed frets.

Machine heads, also called tuning keys or tuning pegs, should be tight so the tension created by tightening the strings will not cause the gears to slip. If the tuning pegs are not of good quality, the strings will not stay in tune or even not be able to be tuned properly in the first place.

About 'guitar packages': whereas it is possible to acquire serviceable guitars and amplifiers by purchasing one of the relatively 'low priced' bundles, which often, except for classical guitars (for which one doesn't need any accessories besides a case, cleaning/polishing products and perhaps a guitar stand and foot stool) include a set of strings, a guitar strap, guitar picks, some sort of instruction book or CD, a guitar case, usually a soft case or 'gig bag', and if for an electric guitar or bass, a small amplifier and instrument cord.

The main issue with the packages is that they are bundled in a box. Unless one can open the box up and 'test-drive' the guitar (or amplifier) to check out the quality and serviceability of the contents of any particular box, it's more or less a surprise grab-bag situation where one doesn't know what they are getting. Even choosing by major brand does not guarantee the serviceability of that individual instrument and accessories. In general, retail stores will allow a customer to check out the contents of a packaged product. Being able to see another guitar or amplifier that is 'like' the one in the box isn't the same as being able to check out the individual product being considered for purchase; so regardless of whether one is in a large department-type store or a guitar music store, one can always ask to open the box to access the contents. If one store won't allow this, the same packaged guitar bundle will likely be available at another store that will.

 

   
   ELECTRIC 6 STRING GUITAR                                              return to About Buying A Guitar discussion                          back to top  
 

Active and Passive pickups. Active pickups operate on a 9-volt battery that powers a "Pre-Amp" inside the guitar, Passive pickups lack this battery.

Single Coil pickups and Humbucking pickups (formerly called Hum Canceling). Single Coil pickups are wired in proper phase, while Humbuckers are wired in "reverse phase". Single Coil pickups tend to hum when the instrument power is turned on but is not being played. Humbuckers "cancel out" this hum. Humbucklers are sometimes regarded as having a preferred sound and some guitarists utilize the Single Coil 'hum' for technique purposes.

 

   

 


'Camouflage' custom body paint

 
   ELECTRIC 4 STRING BASS GUITAR      
 

 


There are also acoustic Bass guitars
 

 
   ACOUSTIC 6 STRING GUITAR        
 


 

 

 


There are also Electric/acoustic guitars

   
  CLASSICAL 6 STRING GUITAR      
   

 
There are also Electric/acoustic Classical guitars

 
         
  back to top              return to About Buying A Guitar discussion      


 

woods used for guitar construction                                                    return to About Buying A Guitar discussion                           back to top
Mahogany When used as a top, Mahogany has a relatively low velocity of sound, (compared to other topwoods) considerable density and a low overtone content producing a solid tone and respond best at the upper end of the dynamic range. Mahogany topped guitars have a strong "punchy" tone that is well suited to country blues playing.

When considered as back and sides, Mahogany has relatively high velocity of sound, which contributes much overtone coloration. While rosewood guitars may be thought of has having a metallic sound, mahogany guitars sound more wood-like. The harder, denser examples of these woods can take also on the characteristics of the rosewoods. Mahogany back and sides tends to emphasize the bass and the treble.

Mahogany necks help to create a warmer, more 'woody' tonal range.

As bridge material, mahogany imparts the same tonal characteristic as it does when used as neck material, only less so.

 

Koa Koa has been used for soundboards since the 20's. This hardwood has a relatively low velocity of sound, considerable density and a low overtone content. Therefore, it tends to produce a solid tone and respond best at the upper end of the dynamic range. Koa has a somewhat more 'midrangey' tone that works well for playing rhythm and truly shines in guitars made for Hawaiian-style slide playing.

For back and sides, Koa tends to behave much like mahogany in terms of adding tonal coloration, but it's emphasis is again more in the midrange.

 

Brazilian Rosewood The rosewoods contribute to tone coloration. Brazilian rosewood is known for its high sound velocity and broad range of overtones, also characterized by strength and complexity in the bottom end and an overall darkness of tone in the rest of the range. Strong mids and highs also contribute a richness of tone to the upper registers. Rosewood guitars also have a pronounced reverberant-like tone quality, caused by audible delays in the onset of certain harmonics. While both species exhibit complexity, darkness and a reverberant tone, Brazilian rosewood has tremendous clarity in the bottom end and sparkle in the top.

When used for necks, Brazilian rosewood adds sparkle and ring.

 

Indian Rosewood Indian rosewood is also known for high sound velocity and broad range of overtones, strength and complexity in the bottom end and an overall darkness of tone in the rest of the range. Strong mids and highs also contribute a richness of tone to the upper registers. Rosewood guitars also have a pronounced reverberant-like tone quality, caused by audible delays in the onset of certain harmonics. Indian rosewood has a thicker, more midrange overall coloration.

When used for necks, Indian rosewood can help fatten up the midrange.

 

Sitka Spruce Spruce is the standard material for soundboards, the most commonly used species being Sitka. Its high stiffness combined with the lightweight characteristics of most softwoods, makes it a recipe for high velocity of sound. A strong fundamental to overtone ratio gives Sitka a powerful direct tone capable of retaining its clarity when played forcefully. This makes Sitka an excellent choice for topwood for players whose style demands a wide dynamic response and a robust, meaty tone. On the other hand, the lack of complex overtones in Sitka can produce a somewhat thin sound when played with a light touch - of course, depending upon the design of the guitar and the other choices of wood in its construction

 
Red Spruce Red spruce is relatively heavy, has a high velocity of sound, and the highest stiffness across and along the grain of all the topwoods. Like Sitka, is has a strong fundamental, but also a more complex overtone content. Tops produce the highest volume, yet they also have a rich fullness of tone that retains clarity at all dynamic levels. In short, red spruce may well be the Holy Grail of topwoods for acoustic steel string guitars.

 
Maple Maple, as a result of its greater weight and lower sound velocity, can be downright flat sounding, a blessing in disguise when a guitar is amplified at high sound pressure levels. This is why maple is the wood of choice for electric guitar tops. West Coast big leaf maple is the softest and lightest of the maple family, with a wood grain that resembles waves. Aside from a visually breathtaking pattern, the wavy fibers of 'curly' maple reduce the long grain stiffness and vibrate more freely. (This is the secret to the bright, clear powerful sound of the Parker Fly, the only solid-body guitar made with a curly maple body.

In acoustic guitar use, different species of maple, such as big leaf, sugar and bearclaw, tend to be more acoustically transparent due to their lower velocity of sound and high degree of internal damping. This allows the tonal characteristic of the top to be heard without the addition of significant tonal coloration.

Maple necks can impart a bright "poppy" tone that can do much to reinforce the top end of a large-bodied guitar. Fender electrics tend to use maple necks for the aforementioned "bright poppy" tone.
Walnut Black walnut tends to lean slightly more in the tonal direction of mahogany, while claro walnut tends toward tonal transparency.

 

Alder Alder is a lightweight wood that is highly resonant, producing a full rich tone. When used for solid-body construction, alder provides a very good low end and midrange with the best performance in the lower mid range. Alder also exhibits good high-end characteristics and sustain.

 
Poplar Poplar is a string, dense, yet lightweight hardwood that is unusually resonant. Poplar, when used in solid-body electric guitars, has an exceptionally crisp sound, often described as "spirited" and "bouncy" - even "funky." Poplar guitars are ideal choices for players who favor single-coil snap and clean sound.
Swamp Ash Swamp Ash, which grows partially underwater, is a lightweight wood with high stiffness (for high sound velocity), famous for its mid-range snarl and biting response.

 
Basswood Basswood is light, stiff, and stable, which makes it particularly effective for necks and bass instruments thanks to its excellent low- end response.

 
Ebony Ebony, the traditional material found on the necks of violins, classical guitars, and high-end steel strings, has the lowest velocity of sound of all the woods commonly used and has definite damping characteristics. While not a problem for large-bodied guitars made of red spruce or Brazilian rosewood, it may be something to consider when designing smaller guitars, particularly those using less resonant tonewoods for tops and backs.

back to top       return to About Buying A Guitar discussion

This page is an addendum to ABOUT GUITAR LESSONS

SEE OTHER COMPARISON PAGES:
CLICK HERE for information on buying a guitar
CLICK HERE for information on guitar amplifiers
CLICK HERE for information on guitar and bass strings
CLICK HERE for information on guitar effects in a combo amp head or to use with a combo amp and kinds of units
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE guitar amplifiers, 10-20 Watt with 5" to 8" speakers. Priced: $80 and less
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE guitar amplifiers, 15-60 Watt with 8" to 12" speakers. Price range: $150 and less
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE guitar amplifiers, 15-100 Watt with 8" to 12" speakers. Price range: $350 - $150
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE of combo guitar amplifier w/ zoom image of  guitar amp head showing features & knobs
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE bass guitar combo amplifiers 25-120W with 10" to 15" speakers. Priced around $200 and less
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE bass guitar combo amplifiers 30-300W with 10" to 15" speakers. Priced around $200-$350
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE acoustic/electric guitar amplifiers 10 - 60W with 6" to 8" speakers Priced: $300 and less
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE electric guitar package comparisons
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE electric bass guitar package comparisons

CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE acoustic guitar package comparisons
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE acoustic/electric guitar package comparisons
CLICK HERE for EXAMPLE classical guitar package comparisons

EDUCATIONAL INFORMATION COMPILED OFFERED 'AS IS'   PICTURES AND INFORMATION ARE FOR EXAMPLES

RETURNS: ONLINE PRESS KIT PLUS  ABOUT GUITAR LESSONS   ABOUT GUITARS   ABOUT GUITAR EQUIPMENT

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